Sunday, February 15, 2015

On hiatus

My blog will be on hiatus for a while. We are in the busy process of selling our house and buying a new one. The selling went a lot faster than we thought and if everything goes as planned (subject to the buyers getting the mortgage as is the rule here) we have to move out before May 1. I expect there won’t be a lot of time to sew and even less to post here. We will be visting houses to find a new place, de-cluttering all that’s stored in the attic (what a lot you can store there) etc.

So it’s bye for now, but I will continue blogging about my sewing adventures in (hopefully) a few months time.

Friday, February 13, 2015

Third place

My dress made it to 3rd place in the Pattern Review contest. Thank you if you voted for me. It was special to read the comments on it. All the nice comments either here or on PR made me blush. I wore the dress to a dinner last week and it was very comfortable. It was also great fun to make and see it turn out the way it did. There is another knock off dress in drafting process, hope to make it in the next weeks.

Anne said in a comment “I understood that you can't just add sleeves to a sleeveless garment so is this drafted specifically to take sleeves”. That in general is true: a sideseam for a dress with sleeves is a bit shorter (and the armhole deeper) than a sleeveless dress. When drafting a sloper for a sleeveless dress in the drafting system I use also a little less ease is used than in a sloper used for a dress with sleeves. Not a lot (2 cm in total circumference for a fitted bodice), but still. I don’t know whether this works the same in all drafting systems, it’s the way I learned it. I think you can add sleeves to a sleeveless garment if you deepen the armhole a bit.

To conclude the posts on this dress a few pictures explaining how I drafted the lines in the pattern.

In the first picture you see a part of the skirt (right hip to be exact) with the dart.

When folding the dart closed, the lines of the pattern piece are not straight any more.

The last step was make a straight line again en marking the lines that now have to be ignored. It’s making calls of judgement all the time, because some space is take and added at various places. I had to decide whether that could be done or not without affecting the fit. That’s the reason I did not take out the bust or vertical back darts, it simply could not be done.

Two conclude two detail pictures.

Friday, February 6, 2015

Contest

I voted in the Bargainista Fashionista Contest 2015!

Not asking to vote for me, but have a look at all the wonderful entries and if you are a member of Pattern Review, you can vote for the 5 entries you like best.

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There is a lot going on these weeks in my life (all positive), not a lot of sewing though. I will share a bit more info on the dress but it has to wait. The review of the dress with some additional info is here.

Friday, January 30, 2015

Done!

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It is a ponte knit, so a few wrinkles are probably part of and different depending on the way I stand. Of course the camera battery was low and my son only managed above pictures with the camera that makes the colors correctly (on my monitor at least). Below another camera which has a strange blueish color to the photo. Never mind, you get the picture….

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I’m entering this dress in the Bargainista/fashionista contest on Pattern Review. So many great entries already, take a look!

There were questions about the pattern used. I did not use a pattern and drafted a pattern to my own measurements from scratch. More details in my review that I will publish later today on PR and here on my blog too.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Dress coming together

After showing you all options I like to share my progress. This is the result of a rainy Sunday afternoon.

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I considered all the suggestions and votes given. thank you so much for that. The blue was more teal than I remembered and after also coloring the back options I decided on above variation. I took my chances and did not make a muslin. I’ve made so many in the past months (a lot not blogged about) that I was completely in a mood not to make one. I drafted a pattern with my own measurements with no ease for the bust (either positive or negative), drafted the lines in it, repositioned the darts in the front to match the lines and crossed my fingers it would work. It does! Happy dance. I do need the bust and back darts and did not try to take those out.

I will cut 3/4 sleeves and see how that will look. A sleeveless dress is no option here in these winter months and a jacket or cardigan will also hide what this dress is about.

The side seams are only basted and the darts not pressed yet. To be continued…..

Sunday, January 18, 2015

Why use a pressing roll

Just a quick post showing the advantage of using a pressing roll. I’m assuming you know an ironing board and iron are as important as a sewing machine. I guess as much time is spent pressing seams as sewing them (even more perhaps?)

Two seams in a test piece of my ponte knit. No significant difference on the wrong side.

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Same seams on the right side:

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The seam on the right was pressed on a pressing roll, the left one flat on the ironing board. The imprint when ironed flat is visible in this fabric when ironed flat. This does not happen using a pressing roll. A roll could be made from a piece of round wood (broomstick) with a towel around it.

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Mix and match in red

In my first post of the new year I mentioned I wanted to sew more clothes that mix and match. With the first three garments this year I made a good start. First a pencil skirt in a boucle fabric with a lot of colors in it: from off-white to a deep warm red and a lot ot shades in between. A good basic to start with. The fabric I bought as a remnant piece at a market a few years ago.  It’s strange how the weave suggests an off-grain in the photos. It is cut on the grain (taking out a thread at the start of the fabric, cutting along that cut out thread and then making sure the pattern pieces are on the grain before cutting).

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The second one is a top to go with it, McCall’s 6513 that I made last year when the pattern was recommended to me by one of my sewing friends.

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And last the Sienna jacket from StyleArc. Too big in the back and I did take in the center seam and re-cut the collar. I MUST learn to use a size or two smaller and do a fba, OR make my own pattern. I quite like it though. It’s made from a thicker wool jersey (the pattern calls for a woven fabric). I thought it might work with this fabric and it does, making it dressier than a cardigan but just as comfortable and warm. This pattern will be used again after I altered the back.

 

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I have a lovely jacquard weave fabric for a skirt in the same color as the McCall’s shirt. That’s one of the next projects. After the dress that is. Thank you all for your ‘votes’ on this. The dress is cut and I’m off to work on it this afternoon.

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