Thursday, October 4, 2012

Jacket construction–part 5–Finished

In my last post I showed pictures of the body of the jacket without sleeves.  Inserting the sleeves with this fabric was no problem. The extra ease in the sleevecap was easy to distribute in the armscyce. The first picture shows the extra fabric that is eased. In the next picture I have cut little pieces out of the seam allowance to smooth the sleevecap.

 

The lower part is sewn twice between the notches with a little space in between, then the seam allowance is trimmed only between the notches on the lower part of the armscyce.

 

The sleevehead is made of a 5 cm wide (2 inch) strip of fabric. Time to clean out my sewing room properly, as there must be some special fabric I use for this, but I couldn’t find it, and I looked hard. This works well though.

  

 

Now the main jacket was ready. Time for the lining. I used an off-white silk fabric that I bought in New York two years ago during a lovely meeting with Nancy K, Robin and Meg. The outer fabric has silk in it as well, so thought this was a good combination.

I used the bagging technique as described in the book Power Sewing by Sandra Betzina. In the first picture you see the opening in the back of the lining

 

 

Of course some photos of the finished jacket. The light is difficult, some photos are with flash, some without, making the color different. Even though I lenghtened the sleeve I would have preferred it a bit longer. It’s fine, but my preference is longer.

I’m not going to make a big deal of that, I like the jacket very much. It’s a lot of work making it like this, but I know it will last longer. A jacket that I made with similar techniques in July 2008 still looks good and I’ve worn that one quite a few times.

 

Time for a a little less time consuming project. Not sure yet what it will be.

19 comments:

  1. It's beautiful! The care you took in constructing it is evident.

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  2. It looks great! Worth the time.

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  3. What a great fit through the shoulders! It looks fantastic. It will be fun to wear this Autumn.

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  4. Looks amazing Sigrid. Very high end boutique and a great fit.

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  5. so beautiful - enjoy wearing this gorgeous jacket!

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  6. A wonderful jacket Sigrid, as usual, the fit is fantastic.

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  7. Sigrid,
    As always, the jacket is beautiful, and thank you for taking the time to show the process.

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  8. This is a great write up. I always have to relearn the finishing techniques because I tend to rush - and now you've shown me why I should slow down.
    Your jacket is gorgeous.

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  9. Wow! That's lovely! What great workmanship and it shows in the finished jacket.

    That zipper turned out perfect too.

    I can see that being work with wool slacks and jeans and would work great with a pretty scarf. So chic!

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  10. Wow! That's lovely! What great workmanship and it shows in the finished jacket.

    That zipper turned out perfect too.

    I can see that being work with wool slacks and jeans and would work great with a pretty scarf. So chic!

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  11. Beautiful jacket. The style and the colors in the fabric are so versatile. I am sure you will wear it often.

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  12. Beautifully made, beautifully fitted jacket. It will go with anything.

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  13. Beautiful jacket! Thanks so much for sharing the detailed steps of your construction! I really appreciate the time and effort this took.

    Lynda in LV

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  14. Beautiful jacket and it looks impeccable from the inside too. I am really inspired by the idea of using a boucle to make a moto style jacket.

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  15. Your jacket is beautiful! Well worth the time and care put into it. Thank you for the detailed construction notes :)

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  16. Beautiful work. Great timeless style.

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  17. Beautiful jacket. Great fit and nice workmanship!

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  18. you have power in sewing......glad to know you n your blog.....i'm tika from indonesia......

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