Skip to main content

Interfacing the front

I’m really into the jacket, have take a few hours late at night and early in the morning to work on it. Once again this book is a great reference:



I use the fusible method of interfacing mainly. Both the center front and the side panel are interfaced with a fusible interfacing from my stash. It is of intermediate weight, giving some stability to the fabric without making it stiff.

The interfacing is cut at the roll line and a few millimeters taken off at the lapel side. The opening between the two pieces of interfacing make for an easy folding of the collar. The lapel has an extra layer of interfacing too, with the straight of grain along the roll line.

Afther the a piece of tape is attached at the roll line, at the bottom attached with handstitches, to prevent show through at the right side of the fabric. Turned out to be completely unneccessary in my fabric, as you really can’t see the two stitching lines above the handstitches at the right side of the fabric, even when you know the stitches are there you have to look very, very close to see them.

The zipper basted to the side front with large straight stitches.

Then the side and center front are sewn together. I wanted to use a shoulder stay to give that area more stability. I had to be a bit inventive, as I couldn’t sew it by machine to the facing of the front and I did not have a fusible hair canvas. So I cut the hair canvas piece and stitched a piece of fusible interfacing to it with serpentine stitches, with the adhesive side up.



Then I fused the shoulder stay to the front. I think I’ll make a few catch stitches to secure it to the front facing. The seams of the front also still have to be catchstitched.

After all this the front looks like this. you can see the shaping (pressing on a pressing ham!) and the easy fold of the collar. Hope to continue later tonight.


  1. Looks great Sigrid. I like your method for the front shield. There's another way to attach the shield. Look back in the Threads archives for the series on Armani tailoring. I think that it's in one of those articles. Of course, for next time.

  2. That looks just lovely and I look forward to seeing more as you progress. Beautiful work!

  3. Excellent! Thanks for the mini tutorial. I have this book and will remember your post for next time. Your jacket is looking amazing already :)

  4. Your tailoring book is a favourite of mine too. Love watching great projects come to life.

  5. This is going to be a fantastic jacket! Thank you so much for sharing your "in process" photos. It really helps new comers like me learn.

  6. gosh this is really taking shape

  7. Thank you so much for posting this!! I'm making a jacket with shoulder princess seams and I was totally stuck about how to attach the shoulder piece. My hair canvas isn't fusible either, but stitching it to a lightweight fusible worked! This is my first time using fusible tailoring methods, so I really appreciate seeing your process posts. Thanks again!

  8. Just read through all the previous posts on this project. What lovely fabric, Sigrid! I love seeing all your construction photos and the decisions that you're making along the way.


Post a Comment

It's always nice to have feedback on what I'm posting about. All comments, also positive criticism, are always highly appreciated.
Leuk als je een berichtje schrijft, altijd leuk om te lezen, ook opbouwende kritiek!

Popular posts from this blog

How to sew a sleeveless top with facings

How lovely to read the nice comments on my jacket. Grumpy without coffee commented that the original artist for the cartoon (which apparently was for books) was Sarah Andersen. Thank you for mentioning it. Beckster asked about the way I closed the center back seam of the lining. I did it by machine. She also said “Although I have not tried it, I have been told that the lining can be made by using the pattern minus the seam allowance and facings.” Well, certainly not without seam allowances, it should be without hem and without the facings. Important is that you have about 5 cm hem in the jacket for this to work. And I would always make a center back pleat. It gives you space to move without the lining pulling on the fabric. Next time I make a jacket I will try to make photos of the process of bagging the lining (Patsijean said she would have liked to see them and probably more would be interested). Might take a while though, see the end of this post.-----------------------------I mad…

Hilarious description

This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.“I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Lining a vest

In this post I'll describe how to line a vest. This description is based on the technique that is described in a Burda sewing book I have (in Dutch).

For your information: here you can find this description in a PDF-file.

First the result of the vest, I had no buttons to go with it, will add these later.

The back of the lining is cut 3-4 centimeters from the fold of the fabric. This gives moving space and prevents your outer fabric from pulling.

Sew the center back seam partially: 5 centimeters on the top, and a few centimetres in the waist and on the bottom.

Sew outside of vest as normal, but do not sew the side seams.

Sew lining, without sewing side seams.

Pin and seam vest and lining at front, armholes and back hem. Stitch to the exact seamline of the sideseam, not over it (see next picture)

Make sure you mark the side seam, to be sure that you do not stitch too far.

Clip all round seams, grade seams if your fabric is thick.

Turn the vest by putting your hand through the side s…